Ecology Room’s Comprehensive Guide to Retinoids
The topic of Vitamin A derivates, aka retinoids, is one of the most highly discussed and highly debated topics within the field of esthetics. On one side of the spectrum we have purists who argue that retinol, in all instances, is toxic to the skin and promotes oxidative damage. On the other end of the spectrum are those who tout retinol as the holy grail of anti-aging, a necessary adoption into a skincare routine for anyone with a desire to “turn back the clock.”
As with most topics, I fall somewhere in the middle, and have spent the last several years trying to understand the science and all of the nuances involved in Vitamin A derivatives.
What are retinoids and what do they do?
Retinoids is the blanket term used to describe the classes of Vitamin A derivatives. The following major categories of retinoids is as follows, in order from least to most potent.
retinyl esters
retinol
retinaldehyde
retinoic acid
The Four Categories of Retinoids
Retinoic acid is the active form of Vitamin A, and is what all derivatives must eventually convert to in order to incite any changes in the skin. Retinyl esters, the weakest form of Vitamin A, must undergo 3 conversion processes to turn into retinoic acid, while retinol must undergo two, and retinaldehyde is just one step away in the conversion process.
In my opinion, prescription retinoids are proof that “the poison is in the dose.” They are notorious for their negative side effects including dryness, redness, irritation, etc. Our bodies simply do not need or even know what to do with such high amounts of Vitamin A, and most of it simply sits on the skin and oxidizes upon exposure to sunlight (and oxidative stress = aging which is the very thing we’re trying to avoid).
Next we have retinaldehyde, which is just one conversion step away from retinoic acid, has become my preferred version of Vitamin A, for several reasons.
Because it converts to retinoic acid in just a single step, it starts delivering results much quicker and is 20 times more powerful than retinol for addressing signs of aging, hyperpigmentation, and improving skin texture. I also love that retinaldehyde is a form of Vitamin A that our bodies naturally store, so it’s something that our skin recognizes and actually knows what to do with. When we use a retinaldehyde, our skin uses what it needs and stores the rest for future use.
The next category is retinol, which is probably the most widely recognized Vitamin A derivative and has made its way into countless products targeting aging, acne, and pigmentation concerns. It is a synthetic form of Vitamin A that requires two steps to be converted into retinoic acid. When choosing a retinol, it’s important to find one that uses an active delivery system via encapsulation. Otherwise, it is easily broken down and oxidized by UV rays and oxygen.
The last, and least potent class of retinoids are retinyl esters. Many assume that because retinyl esters are “weaker” that they’re in effect gentler, but that’s not really the case. The extra steps in the conversion process to retinoic acid means the products are sitting on the skin for longer, being oxidized by the sun, and creating irritation. I had my own experience with this after trying out the French pharmacy cult product A313, which is essentially a cocktail of retinyl esters. My skin felt uncomfortably itchy every time I used it (and my skin isn’t bothered by much). After a couple weeks of this I threw it in the garbage and took it as a lesson learned (when you’re in the skincare industry, sometimes you use yourself as a guinea pig).
So do you need to use a retinoid?
One of my core messages is that aging is a gift, and that we should approach these changes to our skin and our appearance with a little more acceptance. However I also understand that it’s important for people to feel confident in their skin; to keep looking and feeling their best for as long as possible. I’m not immune to that either!
So my response to this question is… if you want to slow down the aging process for your skin, while keeping skin health as a main priority, retinaldehyde and/or encapsulated retinol are your best bets. I personally have switched to retinaldehyde after learning more about the conversion processes, and have not experienced a single negative side effect, despite their ability to work quicker and more effectively. We have decades of clinical data proving Vitamin A’s ability to smooth out fine lines and wrinkles, improve acne, and even out skin texture. But this is one category of skincare that I think is so important to get right- for every 100 products on the market, maybe 1 or 2 are worth investing in (if that).
Do not waste your money on cheap, drugstore brands. They are doing more harm than good to your skin. Most are made with harmful filler ingredients and preservatives, most notably BHT which is linked to cancer and other health issues and has been banned in the EU, Canada, and Australia.
Introducing Osmosis Retinals
For the first time, I am carrying a line of Vitamin A products in the studio for retail.
I chose a line of retinaldehydes by Osmosis, a holistic medical skincare line. They have several products in their Vitamin A lineup, with a range of percentages and other targeted ingredients. I’ll introduce them below.
CALM
This is the Vitamin A serum for all the people out there who thought their skin was too sensitive for retinoids. It’s great for clients with rosacea, sensitive/ sensitized skin, and retinoid newbies, sitting at 0.0375% retinaldehyde, along with other barrier-supporting nutrients.
CLARIFY
This particular serum is targeted at acneic skin types. It contains 0.06% retinaldyde, as well as ingredients that decongest the skin while reducing inflammation and improving the epidermal barrier.
CORRECT MD
With a .083% retinaldehyde, this is the perfect serum for those who are looking to get ahead of the aging process. I recommend this one for those in their 20’s and 30’s with normal (not sensitive) skin. Retails for $98 but because it is from their MD collection, is not available for online purchase. But as long as you’re an established client of mine, you can request to purchase next time you’re in the studio (or send me an e-mail).
RENEW MD
This is the most potent retinaldehyde in the Osmosis lineup, especially suited for those with more advanced signs of aging (I recommend it for those in their 40’s and beyond who have prior experience with retinoids). It contains 0.165% retinaldehyde in addition to other ingredients which help soothe and hydrate the skin. Again, this is part of the MD collection and is unavailable for online purchase, but please reach out if you are an established client of mine (or book an appointment to become one!) Retail price is $114.